![]() It’s a simple configuration of one regular wax ring stacked on top by another “extra thick” wax ring with a built-in flange. This is probably the most common path taken by DIYers. If you find that the flange has rust rot, cracks, or other physical defects, or any rots on the subflooring, you need to address those issue first.) According to the manufacturer, Sani Seal can also be stacked.Īll of these products require that your old toilet flange be in a good physical condition to ensure positive seal. Sani Seal is a thick, doughnut shaped made of polyurethane foam ring with a built in cone mold on the bottom that is designed to replace the stacked wax rings. ![]() Option #4: Sani Seal – This is a fairly new product on the market.Some kits also come with a toilet flange extender (see option #2). These rings are designed to be stacked in whatever combination to match the new floor surface level. Some comes with built in gaskets, others either come with separate gaskets or none at all (in that instance you need to use mastic of some sort like a caulking or plumbers putty). Option #3: Spacer Kit – Spacer kits come with hard PVC rings with various thickness.Some are standalone (Zurn Flo-Bowl Jr) and some are part of a kit (Set-Rite). Option #2: Extender Kit – Extender is nothing more than a “funnel” that provides solid conduit path from the bowl horn to the toilet flange.Option #1: STACKED WAX Rings – Simply use the same double stacked toilet wax ring setup again.So I decided to explore some NON-DESTRUCTIVE options: Turn the supply valve back on and flush the toilet several times to make sure there are no leaks.Of course, the obvious solution was to gut the floor, remove the lead and oakum, de-solder the flange, add a coupling and extra pipe and add a new flange to match the higher.īut that solution was unappetizing not only because of the time and expense involved, but that would have forced me to disturb the mortar bed along with a PVC bed liner that was pitched to the shower drain. Put the washers, nuts, and bolts back and reconnect the water supply. Make sure the seal is perfectly centered on the flange before setting the toilet back in place. Scrape away the old wax seal and replace it with a new one. Hold the toilet under the bowl and gently rock it back and forth to break the old wax seal, then lift the toilet up and set it aside. ![]() Use a wrench to remove the nuts, bolts, and washers under the caps. ![]() Then, pry the caps off the washers at the base of the toilet with the end of a flathead screwdriver. Turn the compression nut on the water supply line counterclockwise to disconnect the line. Use a cup to remove any remaining water from the bowl and tank and soak up the last bit of moisture with a towel. Remove the lid of the toilet tank, then flush the toilet and hold down the handle until as much water drains out as possible. To fix a leaky toilet seal, turn off the water supply to your toilet by turning the valve clockwise.
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